Відео

Interesting video! A few years back, I grabbed a few discarded laptop battery packs, dismantled them and separated all individual cells, to recover them for other uses, but I never managed to salvage more than 60 to 70 percent of them - there were always cells that never recharged properly and tended to get hot. You seem to have recovered all of yours, which is impressive!

That is awesome. Even if you strip the batteries down like I do, you can biuld your own 12 volt battery for power supply or solar power setup as a backup power to run just the fridge in a blackout situation! Or go through and charge/discharge and test. Then reassemble and go to cash converters and buy a power tool to suit. Mate that is an awesome score!

Get yourself a nice insurance policy or get some metal cans to store them outside the home.

I use powdered/fine silicon carbide in foil packet to the bottom, mix, then lite salt in a foil packet pushed to the bottom, let melt and then mix in de-dross. Saw chlorine solids being used as well for more advanced de-gassing but thats pretty iffy on the safety side as it makes some seriouslly nasty gasses.

A few years ago I made a wheel melting furnace from a 55 drum and made a shallow funnel from a top of another drum. Since this video was made, we burnt a hole in the bottom of the stainless steel pot, so i now use a cast iron Dutch oven to catch the aluminum. All the nasty remains on the funnel. Very little dross skimming. I pour it all in to ingots. Nice clean aluminum to use in my electric furnace that i use for casting. ua-cam.com/video/l7tqOxzmGj0/v-deo.htmlsi=0fmm3S_a2xcX81Fd I’ve never experienced the issue you’re having, but i only use petrobond, and lost foam in dry play sand. No experience with greensand.

Hello, what type of cast iron can I use for press??? 

Hello, what type of cast iron can I use for press??? 

Hello, what type of cast iron can I use for press??? 

Hello, what type of cast iron can I use for press??? 

Hello, what type of cast iron can I use for press??? 

Great video. I have some time on my hands these days, bought a small furnace. I just changed the brakes on my buddy's truck. Looks like I have some experimenting to do. But first, I want to make sure I have a clue as to what I'm doing, and do it safely. Thanks for making this video. :)

What luck, found the only microwave in the world with a high frequency inverter. 😏

This may be a silly question.But what's the loger red airline?We call in the states Chicago line normally air.Is that what that is

Bentonite and coal are added to this material, right?

Can someone suggest a general of how high above melting point is best to pour any medals?

Large grain salt is a problem

Hey mate another Aussie caster here just wondering where you got your metal casting frames

Ok seeing since not many people were able to comment idk haven't read them yet to compare my knowledge but so far the majority of any battery thats non lithium ion are good source for nickel that would be all disposable batteries mainly and car batteries and check all those tire balance weights I never pass one up on the ground ever since I seen a guy years ago when nickel was alot less at the yard this guy had a five gal bucket almost full barely could even lift it fetch almost 400 bucks so yeah no I do not pass one up if im driving ill be the jackass to stop my car in the middle of the road for one lol I've noticed alot of electronics castings old school castings toys or tools or etc check those again the electronics I think the metal hinges not the monitor long bolt on brackets but the actual little hinges in laptops are nickel and many more components are in some electronics as I take them apart for scrap and sometimes they were in the rain rusted but you can notice a good chance what doesn't rust especially with the color and again low magnetic force umm costume jewelry costume jewelry is another big one I think you'll find lots of nickel or nickel alloys stainless steel if you wanna get an electrolysis machine on a bigger scale all stainless steel is 10 percent nickel and we know how heavy stainless steel accumulates even steel as well as exhaust systems on cars or in general as well again need a bigger scale electrolysis method just grab a tub and use for those slow guys for the slow crowd your pocket no I joke your piggy bank lmfao no ok 🤣 it may just be a little smart to look up nickel ores as I found out my house is sitting on a GD INTRAVENIOUS HIGH LEVEL INTESITY SCREAMING RICH PLATINUM AND GROUP METAL PROPERTY my half retarded mother who needs the money won't let me dig up her husband's parking space where the monstrosity is as the vein is slowly opening and his parking space is already almost obsolete for his little poor Honda screaming help maybe the earth will eat it and burp up a platinum one lol what about heating elements are those nickel or not I can't remember off the top of my head but yeah thats what I can add to this now to read comments to see what I don't know and feel gmfree to criticize me it only betters my knowledge and learning experience I don't know it all so I take no offense your just teaching me better stuff I don't know why bozos get offended learning something new thanks guys.

Looks mildly contaminated. Just cast ingots first if you have the ability. Should clean up a bit.

If we use the ferrosilicon, Fe will contaminate in the alloys?

How about the temperature to dissolve Si in Cu?

Greetings, my friend, you would have to make a large oven, insert the entire tire without cutting and when melted, pour it into ingots so you use portions in the small oven.

Привет дорогой друг! Не используйте для литья алюминиевый силуминовый лом, сначала необходимо первичная переплавка очистка

I knew a bloke who cast stuff years ago. He said he only uses aluminium that is machined, if you can machine in a commercial setting it has some quality about it. His go to material is car rims, the same as yourself. As for cutting the rims up, plasma, I can make perfectly good metal in to scrap with one of them.

You need to preheat the mold to stop freezes.

I've saved a heap of small engine (lawn mower) alloy bodies. I guess they'll be useless? I do have two car rims though, but as you say, very difficult to chop up. I read a lot of the comments and it appears silicon is the culprit. Are there any additives that can be used to to lessen it's impact? oldfoundryman suggests strontium or sodium, a lot of derivatives containing those, so which to choose is beyond me. Interesting video.

Cans are not made of the correct alloy for casting. They have additives for extruding! Only use scrap castings to acquire casting material. Alloy wheels, crankcases & pistons are way better.

could you use beach sand, such as the squeeky one we have on the Gold Coast, thanks mate

Interesting >> More 'Big Bore' Vents Preheat the Mold. Add small amount of Cadmium Pressure the Aluminum at the end of the pour before total solidification. Don't use old Aluminum castings. There's a list of tips for you.

Hi you probably don't want a Kiwi telling you what to do but I have been a supplier of Al and Cu base ingot to NZ and Aussie for a fair few decades now I will refer to alloys by the Australian standards but these alloys have equivalents world wide Wheels are CC601 that is 7% Si for moderate fluidity and 0.3% Mg for heat treatment and 0.05% Sr for grain refinement the smaller castings like alternator bodied are pressure die casting alloys like DA401 with 12% silicon and 1% iron very fluid but very subject to surface shrinkage such as you see also your remnant ingot and sprue top indicates this alloy Bell housings are often CA313 another pressure die casting alloy 9%Silicon 1% Iron and 3% Copper often very shitty ( technical jargon ) and the Cu% causes corrosion Forged wheels have no Silicon and run very poorly wheel may have the word geschmiedet on it you have no riser to help feed the casting however a large runner bar and in-gates can be better for the type of casting shown and allow the casting to feed instead of sucking in the surface Good to see your sprue taper toward the casting The finer grain toward the surfaces is purely due to the faster cooling rate against the sand I know wheels are a bugger to break up but they are the best option for sand casting short of paying twice as much for certified ingot and the CC601 alloy develops micro porosity in the center rather than huge sucks on the surface Good luck with your castings

I'd recommend getting a copy of "Casting Aluminum" by C.W. Ammen ISBN 9780830619108 published by Tab Books, 1985. Great book, goes through everything and pretty sure it explains what you're going through and what to do about it. I have the book around here somewhere but it's been years as I used it for a science experiment back in the early 90's for school. Seems to be pricey nowadays but you may find it at the library or elsewhere. Good luck.

long time ago i had an e-book about aluminum and all the varied processes, one thing it talked about was the specific alloys that were best for casting, extrusion and machining, you _might_ be able to use a camera to figure out what alloy you have when it's hot, then amend with a high alloy ingot.

What temperature are you pouring at? Those look kinda like cold shuts, and I wonder if the alloys you've formed by mixing scrap just need to be poured with some more overheat.

If you put the alloy rims on a fire bed, heat them up to a reasonable temperature it is easy to break them apart into small pieces with a hammer.

Question: Can you cut the car rims up with an oxy/ acetylene torch? That would make quick work of them right? Nice vid!

One more Internet Expert. (reading some of the previous ones were painful) Different aluminum alloys have different characteristic. General wisdom is that if it was previously sand cast then it should be a good alloy to sand cast. That automotive parts should be a good source of aluminum for sand casting. I wish it were so simple. There are many factors when choosing an alloy and with it process considerations. And you don't know all those details when dealing with scrap. Some castings are die castings and that process is totally different than gravity casting. Iron is a required element in the alloy when working with steel dies, but is undesirable from a metallurgical aspect. Hydrogen in the melt is bad, but sometimes desirable. More hydrogen will cause more porosity in the structure but can also reduce the external shrinkage. When the alloy solidifies it will shrink, but where? Internal porosity might be acceptable depending on the part designed. Some alloys have a fast freezing behaviour and some are slow freeze. Another factor to consider. Without knowing the alloy's composition, and testing how to work with that alloy, the best solution is to use only what you know that works with your process.

I would be curious if adding a substantial riser (4-5 in) would help by adding hydraulic pressure to fill the mold better and counteract steam or gas being released from the melt as it cools. It would be an easy thing to try...

I've been casting aluminium on and off for decades, never has this problem. I have learnt to cast my scrap into batches of ingots first and test each batch by breaking an ingot from each batch to see how the strength and grain structure is. Had a problem a few years ago with huge crystals forming and a very weak (useless) castings, think it was some diecast zink that got in the mix? I use oil bonded sand, dead easy and no need to vent except for things like long cores. Agree about the car wheels being a pain to cut up. Easier to break them up with a sledge hammer, than to cut them. Water cooled VW cylinder heads are made of really nice alloy....

Wow. It looks like very uneven retraction during cooling and solidification. My guess is the melt viscosity gets extremely high near solidus. Segregation and forming of dispersed precipitates before bulk solidification would be the perfect mechanism for that to happen. And the metal cannot flow to fill the shrinkage around cooling zones. It would be consistent with the defects being way worse on the cope side. I see @akdenyer talking about pressure casting. He may well be correct. High pressure injection would actually solve this problem by forcing the metal to flow towards the shrinking areas, regardless of the viscosity. This alloy seems useless for fine casting. You may still be able to produce ingots for machining or forging.

Very informative as always, thanks for taking the time to show us

You need to put a degassing compound based on calcium carbonate

Alloy segregation sounds plausible. I was thinking you could try the molding techniques which should reduce air entrainment to see if that has any effect. Smaller size sprue, pouring basin, tilting a plate casting like the one in the video so that it fills from one side gradually raising and not having streams running across the plate.

Strangely abnormal shrinkage. Motor aluminum is usually alloys with a high silicon content, they do not behave this way. There may be a high content of oxides; you can try letting the melt sit for half an hour or more in a closed crucible so that the oxides settle to the bottom.

Gas in the Aluminium smelt must be removed. 1) Using degassing tablets. Difficult to find. And when you do, a huge amount must be bought. 2) Use another gas, nitrogen to bubble through your smelt. Think "aquarium bubble" system, but now with nitrogen and heat resistant. Expensive and overkill. 3) The Chinese method! Melt the Aluminium, let it solidify in the crucible. Then re-melt. WITHOUT STIRRING then poor: no more bubbles. This cannot be done in a commercial smelter, as re-melting is too expensive (time consuming), that is why a reference to this method is difficult to find. I found it on some Chinese website. The alloy might make a difference, but don't focus on that.

Always interesting to learn more. I had some clues but not a firm answer.

Aluminium car rims are usually a decent source for casting projects.

I haven't read the books @olfoundryman mentioned in a video. He suggested 3 books to read to get good castings of aluminum.

Hi Luckygen1001, great to see a video from you again! The shed seems a lot clearer now? Have you been working your way through your stocks of materials? Mark from Melbourne

I am not expert, but I think you need to fast cooling quench the cast as soon as it get the shape, then you will heat treat to relieve the stress.

i belive welders also hate cast aluminium from similar reasons, bunch of traped impurities that leach out when melting metal but i don't know what causes it but i would really like to ask about something else how do zink aloys behave in similar situations, and are they any suitable replacement?